It had a 1970 US list price of 139. Really, just reducing the power supply hum would make me happy. This website uses cookies to ensure that you get the best experience. The Musicmaster guitar had been around since 1956, but the bass equivalent was not launched until the second half of 1970 - this is the first catalog inclusion of the Musicmaster bass. More questions to come but this really would address most of what I want to change with this amp. I ordered a complete set of F&T caps,havn't arived yet.ģ- Question # 2 why has the 220ohm restistor been replaced with those green ones? The large one is 640ohm and it is in series with another one that is unmarked? This is not original and I have a 250ohm block type on hand to replace those, but I would like opinions first as maybe there is a reason that 640ohm was chosen with the new PT? Question #1:Is this a good,suitable PT for this amp?Ģ- Electrolytic caps. Looks to be the same specs as stock but its much thicker for better cooling? There is a new PT in this thing,I'll include a photo of the specs. I'm hoping that new filter caps will help here. There is some power supply noise that remains constant regardless of the vol/tone settings. But I kinda doubt it now.Really a great,clean little handwired Fender amp. I thought I would be doing a bunch of the recommended mods like the tone control mod,hasselbrock mods,jumpering the RF blocking cap etc. Ok, the amp arrived and she works great.Instantly greeted me with a beautiful Fender clean tone. To me the DC blocking aspect of it is important, especially in this day and age of a huge pile of effect pedals on a "pedal board" in front of the amp, especially if older FX pedals are used. As I mentioned earlier, the real RF problem with amps like this is that which occurs because the input jack loses a solid ground connection. The amp really doesn't have the bandwidth for RF to be much of a problem. yogurt nutrition facts restaurants near ocean place resort and spa 2 stall horse barn kits Menu Toggle. But pardon my being a smart Alec, but might as well install garlic cloves to ward off elephants. If you wasn't to stick one in there anyway, yes it will not hurt anything. it won't affect anything the amp is likely to do. If you remove it, I see no benefit adding the bead. never mind that the effect would be outside the audio range or some such. Someone rationalizes that such and such effect would be diminished by some mod. A lot of mods are common, and a lot of those common mods are done for specious reasons. You can tack a wire across it when you get there just to see if it affects the sound of the amp. Having said this, there are a lot worse guitars out there, and as well as being historically important, the 1820 bass can certainly provide the goods when required.I do advise against removing it. Over the course of the 70s, the Japanese output improved dramatically, and in many ways these early 70s models are a low point for the brand. These new Epiphones were based on existing Matsumoku guitars, sharing body shapes, and hardware, but the Epiphone line was somewhat upgraded, with inlaid logos and a 2x2 peghead configuration. The Matsumoku factory had been producing guitars for export for some time, but the 1820 bass (alongside a number of guitar models and the 5120 electric acoustic bass) were the first Epiphone models to be made there. By the end of the 1960s, a decision had been made to move Epiphone guitar production from the USA (at the Kalamazoo plant where Gibson guitars were made), to Matsumoto in Japan, creating a line of guitars and basses significantly less expensive than the USA-built models (actually less than half the price).
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